Trout can hone in on the scent of salmon eggs from far away.

Trout sense food and danger in a variety of ways. A trout’s sense of smell is one of its primary means of survival. This is the second installment in the post series: Trout Senses. The first post describes trout vision, discussing subjects such as sight outside of the water and the trout’s night vision.

Using Scent to Catch Trout

Trout do have a keen sense of smell and track food accurately from quite a distance. One of the most commonly used baits that emits scent is salmon eggs. There are also other baits that naturally emit scent or sprays can be used on lures to create a simulated scent. Both methods have provden to work to attract trout.

Covering Your Scent to Catch Trout

Trout also use their sense of smell to detect danger. Trout are fond of clean, clear water and often feed on the surface, but this makes them an easier target causing trout to be very leary of any signs of danger. Trout can detect oils emitted from other animals, including humans, that triggers their instinctual alarms. This can cause them to dart for cover and stop feeding. In order to avoid spooking trout with your scent you should usually fish upstream. You should also be careful to avoid contact with unnatural chemicals in items such as bugspray and sunblock. While these are often vital items you should be careful to rinse your hands completely before touching your lure.

I hope these tips on trout smell provide better fishing.  Good luck!

State Conservation Departments, or in some states the Department of Natural Resources, provide periodic updates called fishing reports. Often these can be viewed online or received as an email. The value of these reports is that they provide basic information that is commonly recorded in personal fishing journals. This information can include moon phases, weather, water levels, water clarity and quality, water temperature, and the quality of fishing for specific species as well as successful lures and baits. Examining this information over a period of time can reveal patterns for fish in a more consistent manner than your personal journal.  After all, unless your extremely lucky, and extremely fast, your not able to fish all of the rivers and lakes in your state every week.

This approach does have its weaknesses as you are limited to the weather and water events that the state decides to record and publish. For instance, I receive the Missouri Department of Conservation weekly fishing report email, and it does not include the moon phase. But, this can easily be overcome by simply comparing the moon phase published by other resources such as your local newpaper or a farmer’s almanac.

You can also merely use the fishing reports to supplement your own fishing experiences. This allows you to include additional notes in your journal.  For instance, you can compare what fish were biting on in nearby fisheries with what was working for you. The benefit of this can be reassurance that the success of your lure choice was not mere coincidence or it can reveal what other lure might work under similar circumstances.

Using fishing reports as your journal or to supplement your own experiences is made easier if the conservation department’s website contains a archive of past reports. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to start saving your email fishing reports to get enough to recognize a pattern. 

This one of the easiest ways for a beginning fisherman or for an angler that simply can’t fish as much as they would like to get enough information to develop a fishing journal that reveal important patterns of fish behavior in relation to weather, moon phases, and water conditions.

To record information you can simply use a tablet or a computer document, but many fishing specific journals are available that have templates for fishing relevant information. The list below provides a few examples. Some are for fishing in general, while other journals are designed specifically for a type of fish, such as trout, or for a type of fishing, such as flyfishing.

Waterloo Creek flows through what was once tall grass prairie nestled in small valleys.

Most of the streams are stocked weekly from one of the five trout hatcheries managed by Iowa’s Department of Natural Resources.  The most scenic and trout abundant waters lie in the tributaries of the Upper Iowa River. My favorites are Bear and Waterloo Creek along the border between Winnishiek and Allamakee Counties. The Turkey and Volga Rivers also offer good trout fishing as well as trails in these extensive natural areas.  The Upper Iowa has a few trout itself, but it is mostly known for its smallmouth bass and walleye fishing.

These streams are not large, some are small enough to cross without getting your feet wet, but they do produce surprisingly large trout as they meander their way through the rolling hills and meadows of Northeast Iowa.

For a family vacation to the area there are also abundant historic sites in the Northeast Iowa and Southwest Wisconsin areas and some highbrow shopping in Galena, Illinois.  Don’t forget to get your Iowa Fishing License and Trout Tag.

A trout's vision does extend beyond the surface of the water and they can see in color.

Trout can see, to some extent, above the surface of the water. There is a circular window from which trout view the terrestrial world. The width of this window depends on the depth of the trout. The Freshwater Angler’s Complete Guide to Catching Trout states that the diameter of the window is a little more than twice the depth of the trout. Thus, a trout located three feet below the surface of the water will have a window about six to seven feet wide to view the world above the surface.

In addition, items located at the edge of the window or lower on the trout’s horizon, such as a fisherman standing on the bank, will appear more distorted. Therefore, it is very important to keep a low profile when fishing for trout to avoid being seen.  Fishing upstream will also help reduce the chances of the trout spotting you as they generally feed facing upstream.

Another aspect of trout sight that a fisherman should be aware of is the trout’s ability to see color. Trout do have color vision. This means a trout may be more or less likely to strike a lure depending on its color. The common thought on lure color selection is to use bright colors when the water is murky and to use duller shades when the water is clear. Its also probably better to use colors that resemble trout prey more during high visibility conditions. Whatever the expected conditions the best option is to bring an assortment of colors and experiment to determine what colors the trout are responding to.

Trout also have some night vision allowing them to detect prey at night but are more likely to depend on their lateral line to detect vibrations at night.

The basic fishing tactics concerning trout vision are to experiment with different colors and to keep a low profile and blend in with the surroundings, perhaps even wearing camoflage, when fishing shallow water.

Don't pass up small streams. They may contain surprisingly large trout.

Trout fishing basics cannot easily be summed up in one article. Both the fish and the sport are simply too diverse for even the basics of trout fishing to be compiled in a few paragraphs. Therefore, I’ll attempt to provide the bare bones here and add links to further articles with more in depth analysis on particular topics as they are created. I think it best to proceed in a manner reflecting the way a typical fishing trip might occur. You’ll first have to gather your gear, then find a spot likely to hold trout, you’ll next have to start casting, and finally you’ll hopefully have the satisfaction of hooking and landing a trout.

Gathering Your Gear

The topic of purchasing your gear will be determined somewhat by the next topic – finding trout waters – and by the type of fishing you want to undertake. The traditional notion of trout fishing usually involves a fly rod and the myriad equipment that goes along with fly fishing. This may include the rod and reel, line, leaders, a fishing vest, waders, a net, flies, a fly box, and perhaps many more items. Fly fishing can be an expensive hobby. This is probably a topic that would be better discussed in more detail by my accomplice Russell, but I will note that fly fishing can be rewarding as it presents a greater challenge and is more conducive to involvement beyond the actual activity of fishing as one can spend more time tying flies than fishing with them.

If you are looking for a quicker way to catch trout then you’ll probably want to purchase a spinning reel and rod. Further, unless you’re looking to catch lunkers in the tail waters of a dam or trolling for lake trout you will probably want an ultralight spinning reel. I find that the lighter the line the better. I typically use four to six pound test line on “wild” rivers, but use only two pound test when fishing trout parks that receive a lot of traffic.

Probably my all time favorite lure. An 1/8 ounce Panther Martin resembling a fingerling Brown Trout. Trout are cannibals.

You’ll also need lures. I find the most versatile and successful lure to be an inline single spinner, such as a Roostertail or Panther Martin. Get a good selection of colors ranging between 1/16 and 1/4 ounce. Of course the bigger the fish you’re after the larger the lure you’ll want. You also need to match the size of the lure to the rod and reel. One-sixteenth to 1/4 ounce lures will work fine with an ultra-lite setup but a larger rod reel combo may not cast the lighter end of this spectrum very well. In addition to the spinning lures you’ll probably want to a few other lures that are particularly successful for a given river or region. For instance, at Roaring River State Park in Missouri small plastic worms are very popular and effective. To find out the best local lures visit your local tackle shop or contact a hatchery.

Some device for carrying these lures is also required. Some are fund of vest, which are comfortable and handy, but a small pocket tackle box is another option. Others prefer simply sticking some lures in their hat.

Other essential gear includes a net and a pair of forceps for removing hooks. Rubber nets avoid getting hooks caught in fabric. Also, nets with wooden frames look nice but my deteriorate quicker. Some nets have the inches marked inside to make measuring a fish easier. In the end it is personal preference, but you probably don’t need anything too large unless fishing for lake trout or in dam tailwaters. A small single-handed net is sufficient and practical.

Finding Trout Waters

Just as there are a variety of trout species there is also a variety of trout habitat. However, there are some common features to look for in locating trout. These basic features include cold water. Trout usually live in water ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. This means trout will be found in streams and rivers that are fed by year round springs or snow and glacier melt, or in the tailwaters below large dams.

Trout also prefer clean, clear water. They need water that is moving and providing oxygen. This is particularly true with brook trout, while brown trout – particularly larger ones – may be found in slower moving water near structure.

Locating some sort of structure is also a trout fishing basic. These fish are spooked easily and will seek out protection from predators. This means they prefer habitat that allows them to hide. This could be an overhanging bank, logs or rocks, or merely a deep pool close to flowing water.

A sure way to locate a good trout stream is to contact your state’s Department of Natural Resources or Conservation Department. State’s with trout water typically have hatcheries that stock certain locations with trout. Some states also have designated trout parks. These are great places for beginner fisherman to learn the basics of trout fishing.

Catching a Trout

Once you have your gear and you’ve found a trout stream you’ll probably want to catch some fish. As mentioned above, look for a place that has swift flowing water where trout are likely to feed, but also keep an eye out for a place the fish can retreat to in case of danger. This will usually consist of some riffles or rapids followed by a run of swift water and ending a deeper pool.

Approach the likely trout water as carefully as possible. Don’t wear bright clothes and try to keep a low profile. Trout can see out of the water.

For the most part you will want to cast upstream and retrieve your lure downstream keeping the lure moving just a little faster than the current. There are exceptions to fishing upstream, but for the most part this is the best approach. Trout feed facing upstream as they expect food to be brought to them by the current. Reeling the lure downstream also allows the fisherman to get the lure into deeper water where trout often lurk. Also standing or wading downstream is less likely to spook the fish.

Pay particular attention to any places that provide cover for the trout as they feed. Reel your lower close eddys that are located behind large rocks, or cast and retrieve along an overhanging bank.

As you reel attempt to make your lure look as life like as possible. As you reel give slight jerks to the rod making the lure appear as injured prey being swept down by the current.

Of course if you are using live bait or powerbait you may simply toss the bait into a large hole with a sinker, and perhaps an indicator, and wait for a bite. If this is the approach you use be sure to keep the line tight as the bait sits on the bottom in order to detect any strikes.

When you do get a strike, set the hook and keep the line tight. If there is slack line the trout may be able to shake the hook loose. This is particularly true when fish jump out of the water. Trout are often lost when they jump so keep the rod tip up and the line tight. However, when using light line and you have a large trout you will want the drag set so as to allow the fish to run. If your drag is set too high and the fish gives a jerk or starts on a run it may break the line. In order to get the trout in be patient and allow the trout to wear down before attempting to land it. (However, don’t play fish too long when unnecessary as this decreases their chance for survival when released.)

As you reel the fish in get your net ready. Do not chase the fish with the net, but rather lead the fish into the net. Be very gentle with trout and try not handle them too much with your bare hands. Trout are delicate and have a protective layer of slime that is important to their immune system. If releasing get the fish back in the water as quickly as possible.

Conclusion

One of the most important elements to trout fishing basics is too enjoy yourself and don’t become frustrated. Trout fishing can be challenging but don’t overmistify trout and lose confidence. Use the basic approaches set out above, but experiment in your lures and technique, and be patient. The trout fishing basics are easy to understand and to implement though challenging to master, but you’ll be catching trout before you know it.

All the trout fishing literature and advice I’ve come across has always asserted that you should fish for trout by casting upstream and reeling your lure back down keeping it at about the same speed as the current. This advice is for the most part correct being built upon centuries of fishing experience passed down through generations.

The typical reasons given for fishing upstream are that trout feed facing upstream, the lure will go deeper if moving with the current, reeling downstream creates a more realistic presentation of the lure, and if wading your presence may be more apparent to the downstream trout due to scent or the disturbance of the stream. This reasoning is sound, and more often than not this is the approach to be taken for trout fishing streams in general.

Single spinners, such as Mepps and Roostertails, work best for casting across or downstream.

However, I have often found it too tempting to cast my line downstream into a likely spot that I may not have noticed as I waded upstream. I have also found that caving to this temptation is often rewarded with a strike. Here lies my exception to the rule that one should always fish for trout upstream.

In my experience this approach has worked best when I cast across the current, or slightly downstream, at the beginning of a run. I then let the current sweep the lure further downstream and back across into the main current. When successful, the strike usually comes as the lure reaches the end of the sweep, or just as it faces directly upstream with the main current. However, I find it is sometimes necessary to give a couple of quick tugs in order to induce a strike. I’ve done this enough to know that it’s not a freak occurrence, though it may not be as successful as the typical upstream fishing. And, sometimes this approach is the most effective or perhaps the only possible way to reach a particular section of river.

In some circumstances positioning one’s self downstream from a likely spot may spook the trout. There was a particular stream, a tributary to the Deerfield River in the Berkshires of western Massachusetts – Cold Creek – where I used to fish and used this approach quite consistently in a specific stretch. There was a large waterfall flowing into a deep pool, which then gave way to a relatively deep, swift run. The stream was narrow and did not have any type of cover downstream from the run. However, there was a large boulder at the beginning of the run around which the water passed. I found if I approached upstream from the boulder, kept myself concealed, and cast my lure across the current letting it then be swept into the main channel I would get a strike on the first cast nearly every time.

Another benefit to this approach is that you can keep the lure in the trout’s strike zone for a longer period of time. While it may not be efficient to simply let the current hold the lure indefinitely, I have found that if I don’t receive an immediate strike to wait a moment and then give a few quick tugs, which does often incite a trout to strike. This ability to play with the lure in the trout’s feeding lane is not always possible when the current is pushing the lure downstream to you.

Using this approach one can also use the current to deliver the lure to a particularly troublesome, but very trouty, looking piece of cover. Casting upstream may allow you to reel the lure next to a likely eddy or a submerged root wad, but casting downstream and using the current to hold the lure in a likely spot can sometimes be more effective.

Overall, the basic advice that you should fish for trout by casting and wading upstream is correct and this is how I usually proceed. However, if you try giving a cross current or downstream cast a try you’ll probably find it pays off in specific circumstances.