An Invisible Trout Fisherman in Chest Waders

If you’re like me, choosing a pair of fishing waders is a monumental decision, something akin to choosing a spouse or your child’s name.  Maybe I’m exaggerating; choosing a child’s name isn’t that hard.  Anyway, picking out waders is tough, especially when it’s your first pair.  I think it took me over a year to commit to my waders.  That meant a lot of summer days wading in icy spring water and winter days standing on the bank.

Choosing a pair of waders is hard because there are just so many options.  You have to choose between hip-waders and chest-waders, stocking-foot and boot-foot, neoprene and Gore-tex, and the list goes on.  That’s why I wrote this article–to take out some of the confusion and present the options along with their benefits and drawbacks.  So lets get started.

Hip Waders vs. Chest-High Waders

Hip waders, or hip boots, are basically boots that come all the way up to your hips.  You put them on one at a time.  They aren’t connected at the top.  There is usually a strap that connects to your belt or belt-loop.  The nice thing about fishing in these is that you can put them on quickly and easily.  The drawback, for me at least, is that I’m always wanting to go one step further than my hip boots will allow, and when I do take that extra step, it’s a cold, wet one.  For shallow water, or wading back and forth across a small creek, these fishing boots work fine.  But, if you find yourself always wanting to get into a better fishing spot that requires wading through water up to your waist, you better take a look at chest waders.

Chest-high waders are the standard, fly fishing waders that you see most on trout streams.  I think a lot of fly fishermen like these taller waders because they allow them to get far enough from the bank and trees to be able to cast without worrying as much about getting snagged.  The nice thing about chest waders is being able to get closer to a place where you want to cast.  Also, it’s nice being able to cross deeper parts of the stream.

With chest waders an angler doesn’t have to worry about the current causing water to splash up over the top of the boots or waders, unless he or she gets in over the chest, which I wouldn’t recommend.  If you want to go that deep, what you need is a float tube, but that’s another post altogether.  The drawback with chest waders for trout fishing is the time and effort it takes to get into them.  They are a bit harder to take on and off, but this is only a minor inconvenience.

When everything is said and done, it depends on where you’ll be fishing and your fishing style, but I prefer chest waders 90% of the time.

Stocking-Foot Waders vs. Boot-Foot Waders

Stocking-foot waders have a stocking at the bottom instead of a built-in boot.  The stocking is usually made of neoprene or some other warm, water-proof material.  If you buy a pair of these, you’ll also need to choose a pair of fishing boots to go along with them.  That is the drawback.  The benefit is firm ankle support and a snug fit.  I prefer boot-foot waders, because I often spend seven or eight hours on the river wading and climbing in and out of a canoe.  In this situation, waders with bulky boots attached will get a bit tiresome.

Stocking Foot Wader

Boot-foot waders are waders with built-in boots.  The boots are actually a part of the waders.  This is convenient, because when you put your waders on, you’re putting your boots on too.  This can also be economical because you won’t have to buy a pair of fishing boots.  The drawback is that these waders don’t fit as snugly and aren’t as easy to walk in.  Also, if you wear boot-foot waders, you’ll need to bring a pair of shoes to change into when you get out of the river.  I wouldn’t recommend wearing shoes inside your waders.

Breathable Waders vs. Neoprene Waders

Next, you’ll need to choose the material your waders are made from.  My first pair of waders were made of rubber.  Rubber waders are not the best choice in my opinion, but they are the cheapest option.  Most anglers choose between neoprene material and breathable material (like Gore-Tex.)

Breathable waders are well liked because they allow moisture from perspiration to escape without allowing water to enter.  They are great for summer fishing when the water where the trout live is 60 degrees, but the air temperature is a sweltering 95 degrees.  The drawback with Gore-Tex waders is that they won’t keep you as warm as neoprene.  Of course you can wear long underwear or Under Armour beneath your waders, but if you do a lot of winter fishing, you may prefer neoprene.

Neoprene waders have a couple benefits when compared to breathable waders.  First, they do seem to be warmer.  If I had the money, I would buy a pair of neoprene waders for late fall, winter, and early spring, and a breathable pair of waders for warmer times of year.  Also, a lot of outdoors people seem to think they are more rugged and durable than other types of waders.  The drawback is that they don’t wick moisture away from your body and they can get hot and sticky on hot days.

Waders are Fashionable

In conclusion, everybody has their own tastes and needs.  I myself prefer breathable, chest waders, with stocking feet, and separate fishing boots.  Speaking of fishing boots, that will have to be a whole other post.  Once you’ve picked out your waders you’ll need to decide on a pair of boots, and they come with different kinds of soles.  Whatever type of waders are right for you, make sure you try them on first to be certain and to make sure they fit right.

Also, I bought my waders a bit large for a couple reasons.  I lose weight and gain weight from time to time.  I don’t want my waders to be too tight.  I’d rather they be too loose than too snug, and I took into account the fact that I’ll be wearing clothes under my waders.  Finally, there are a lot of different brands in a lot of different price ranges.  I’ve found the middle range waders to be fine for my purposes, but everybody’s different.  You may want to spring for a popular brand.  Choose the waders that work best for you.

Don't pass up small streams. They may contain surprisingly large trout.

Trout fishing basics cannot easily be summed up in one article. Both the fish and the sport are simply too diverse for even the basics of trout fishing to be compiled in a few paragraphs. Therefore, I’ll attempt to provide the bare bones here and add links to further articles with more in depth analysis on particular topics as they are created. I think it best to proceed in a manner reflecting the way a typical fishing trip might occur. You’ll first have to gather your gear, then find a spot likely to hold trout, you’ll next have to start casting, and finally you’ll hopefully have the satisfaction of hooking and landing a trout.

Gathering Your Gear

The topic of purchasing your gear will be determined somewhat by the next topic – finding trout waters – and by the type of fishing you want to undertake. The traditional notion of trout fishing usually involves a fly rod and the myriad equipment that goes along with fly fishing. This may include the rod and reel, line, leaders, a fishing vest, waders, a net, flies, a fly box, and perhaps many more items. Fly fishing can be an expensive hobby. This is probably a topic that would be better discussed in more detail by my accomplice Russell, but I will note that fly fishing can be rewarding as it presents a greater challenge and is more conducive to involvement beyond the actual activity of fishing as one can spend more time tying flies than fishing with them.

If you are looking for a quicker way to catch trout then you’ll probably want to purchase a spinning reel and rod. Further, unless you’re looking to catch lunkers in the tail waters of a dam or trolling for lake trout you will probably want an ultralight spinning reel. I find that the lighter the line the better. I typically use four to six pound test line on “wild” rivers, but use only two pound test when fishing trout parks that receive a lot of traffic.

Probably my all time favorite lure. An 1/8 ounce Panther Martin resembling a fingerling Brown Trout. Trout are cannibals.

You’ll also need lures. I find the most versatile and successful lure to be an inline single spinner, such as a Roostertail or Panther Martin. Get a good selection of colors ranging between 1/16 and 1/4 ounce. Of course the bigger the fish you’re after the larger the lure you’ll want. You also need to match the size of the lure to the rod and reel. One-sixteenth to 1/4 ounce lures will work fine with an ultra-lite setup but a larger rod reel combo may not cast the lighter end of this spectrum very well. In addition to the spinning lures you’ll probably want to a few other lures that are particularly successful for a given river or region. For instance, at Roaring River State Park in Missouri small plastic worms are very popular and effective. To find out the best local lures visit your local tackle shop or contact a hatchery.

Some device for carrying these lures is also required. Some are fund of vest, which are comfortable and handy, but a small pocket tackle box is another option. Others prefer simply sticking some lures in their hat.

Other essential gear includes a net and a pair of forceps for removing hooks. Rubber nets avoid getting hooks caught in fabric. Also, nets with wooden frames look nice but my deteriorate quicker. Some nets have the inches marked inside to make measuring a fish easier. In the end it is personal preference, but you probably don’t need anything too large unless fishing for lake trout or in dam tailwaters. A small single-handed net is sufficient and practical.

Finding Trout Waters

Just as there are a variety of trout species there is also a variety of trout habitat. However, there are some common features to look for in locating trout. These basic features include cold water. Trout usually live in water ranging between 50 and 65 degrees F. This means trout will be found in streams and rivers that are fed by year round springs or snow and glacier melt, or in the tailwaters below large dams.

Trout also prefer clean, clear water. They need water that is moving and providing oxygen. This is particularly true with brook trout, while brown trout – particularly larger ones – may be found in slower moving water near structure.

Locating some sort of structure is also a trout fishing basic. These fish are spooked easily and will seek out protection from predators. This means they prefer habitat that allows them to hide. This could be an overhanging bank, logs or rocks, or merely a deep pool close to flowing water.

A sure way to locate a good trout stream is to contact your state’s Department of Natural Resources or Conservation Department. State’s with trout water typically have hatcheries that stock certain locations with trout. Some states also have designated trout parks. These are great places for beginner fisherman to learn the basics of trout fishing.

Catching a Trout

Once you have your gear and you’ve found a trout stream you’ll probably want to catch some fish. As mentioned above, look for a place that has swift flowing water where trout are likely to feed, but also keep an eye out for a place the fish can retreat to in case of danger. This will usually consist of some riffles or rapids followed by a run of swift water and ending a deeper pool.

Approach the likely trout water as carefully as possible. Don’t wear bright clothes and try to keep a low profile. Trout can see out of the water.

For the most part you will want to cast upstream and retrieve your lure downstream keeping the lure moving just a little faster than the current. There are exceptions to fishing upstream, but for the most part this is the best approach. Trout feed facing upstream as they expect food to be brought to them by the current. Reeling the lure downstream also allows the fisherman to get the lure into deeper water where trout often lurk. Also standing or wading downstream is less likely to spook the fish.

Pay particular attention to any places that provide cover for the trout as they feed. Reel your lower close eddys that are located behind large rocks, or cast and retrieve along an overhanging bank.

As you reel attempt to make your lure look as life like as possible. As you reel give slight jerks to the rod making the lure appear as injured prey being swept down by the current.

Of course if you are using live bait or powerbait you may simply toss the bait into a large hole with a sinker, and perhaps an indicator, and wait for a bite. If this is the approach you use be sure to keep the line tight as the bait sits on the bottom in order to detect any strikes.

When you do get a strike, set the hook and keep the line tight. If there is slack line the trout may be able to shake the hook loose. This is particularly true when fish jump out of the water. Trout are often lost when they jump so keep the rod tip up and the line tight. However, when using light line and you have a large trout you will want the drag set so as to allow the fish to run. If your drag is set too high and the fish gives a jerk or starts on a run it may break the line. In order to get the trout in be patient and allow the trout to wear down before attempting to land it. (However, don’t play fish too long when unnecessary as this decreases their chance for survival when released.)

As you reel the fish in get your net ready. Do not chase the fish with the net, but rather lead the fish into the net. Be very gentle with trout and try not handle them too much with your bare hands. Trout are delicate and have a protective layer of slime that is important to their immune system. If releasing get the fish back in the water as quickly as possible.

Conclusion

One of the most important elements to trout fishing basics is too enjoy yourself and don’t become frustrated. Trout fishing can be challenging but don’t overmistify trout and lose confidence. Use the basic approaches set out above, but experiment in your lures and technique, and be patient. The trout fishing basics are easy to understand and to implement though challenging to master, but you’ll be catching trout before you know it.